DESIGNED TO GO WHEREVER INSPIRATION TAKES YOU The alula-TREK is the latest version of the the world’s most popular bird-inspired RC glider. I probably shouldn’t be posting this before the maiden but whatever Blues Alula is just to sexy. Sexy and very time consuming to build/sand so. Just built myself a little micro glider, its based on a popular Alula DLG. Its a fun little plane to trow around the backyard. My friend recorded
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Remember Me Forgot Password? Page 1 of 43 1. Feb 18, I am presently trying new methods to produce a standard and tapered profiled wingI am using layers because I cant hot cut.
If you have a KF build I recommend sanding down the steps and capping over to get a smooth surface Heavily based on the Alula and Weasel this build uses multi laminated foam layers of 3mm depron to produce pretty good gliding models.
The simply built wing uses 4 layers of 3mm depron and has a CF tube spar that is positioned at the COG. The wings shape is as per the Alula or Weasel. But I have used a longer built up Fuzz to hold the gear which gives you more room to fit all the gear. I wanted to share this design because not everyone can afford the real Alula or Weasel, and this one does compare very favorably to the original.
Alula and Weasel Shape Based Slope Gliders.. A-clone and W-clone – RC Groups
The originals I am sure have an edge on performance, but these have a big cost advantage, and still go very well. Uhu Por for laminating, Velcro to hold the gear in the fuzz, and colored packing tape for the decor. The small versions shown at the start of this thread were found to be low wind fliers onlygetting blown away at over 10mph. The foam fuselages could not take ballast and were too weak and fragile All of thesebig or small need a re-think on the fuselages Use balsa or plynot foam, they should have enough room to take ballast and be strong enough to take the heavy bashing that slope flying will give a model.
At around page 20 bigger models are flying. I am also trying some different KF sections that use more steps. The KFm11 and KFm12 which also go well. Last edited by davereap; May 21, at The decor uses 2″ colored packing tape. The model is fully tape covered as this adds lots of strength and damage resistance to the model.
This project was started with the W-clone but the glide on the original W-clone build was nothing special. This I am sure was down to building the wing as I would my powered KF designs with fairly deep steps and steps on top and as you can see on the bottom. It flew but not brilliantly It will be ok in high wind but in light conditions it is poor Viking60, who has much more experiance on KFm slope and gliders, made some sugestions and taking those on board, and with some ideas of my own, I went on and built the A-clone What a difference, a nice flat glide, with good speed and manouverability.
From a 6 ft high, level, toss I can get ft of distance. Images View all Images in thread. Last edited by davereap; Feb 20, at I am still messing with the COG and the setup. In video 2 the glide at the start is good, but it was made using a too far forward COG so at some distance away the nose is starting to drop and I had to bring it up on elevator. Last edited by davereap; Feb 18, at The W-clone does not include the elevons for the calculations.
Either way the thin wing, small steps and the multi layer build has worked.
The bottom layer1 is the full wing layer. This method involves a lot of carving and sanding, but less brain work. Ive been thinking of staggering the leading edges so that less sanding would be required.
I will sugest layer1 and layer2 be the full size then remove a bit from the next two layers to stagger to the wanted profile The CF spar is slotted into the wing by cutting layer2 along the cog line and removing a strip the width of the spar The A-clone was built with a lauch peg on the spar shown in the pic The W clone with its balsa fuselage can take a lot more ballast easily. AUW gms 9oz wing loading 3. KFm12 mod is the nose shape which takes all the gear.
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Micro Alula glider
Last edited by davereap; Apr 22, at How this one was built plus a minor mod First a lot of measuring to cut out all the layers There is no great difficulty, all the layers were cut to full size so when laminated the LE was just a squared off shape.
The aljla edge of the wing is an arc of radius 34″. Now make a CF spar up with dihedral of 15mm under each tip The depron is thin enough to bend at the center join and the box shape will get it lined up nicely so bend it up and get the two layers glued to the spar. Now there are only two more layers to laminate so get them fitted The tail again was hand drawn at alhla guide size shown.
Its glued on with epoxy Now, the noseblock and top of Fuz When I cover anything I always fix one strip of tape, turn over and fix another strip exactly opposite.
Its a tricky job so take time and do it nice Last edited by davereap; Feb 19, at Making a depron fuzz can be ok but I later found out that there was problems adding ballast. Not only hadn’t I allowed for the extra room neededbut the weight of ballast in a heavy landing, in fact any landing, demolished the lightweight foam fuzz and wrecked the model I recommend going to a fuzz build using ply or balsa, make it stronger alulw bigger to allow for adding ballast.
Now work out your needed depth You can now plan and cut your Fuzz sides Its better make the depth slightly over size, then cut down after youve fitted your gear. Make it deep enough to also act to prevent your servo horn getting hit in a landing On the A-clone it became obvious that the battery would have to go right to the front of this box to get the COG. The rest of the bits are held with velcro.
That small bit of lead turned out a very fine tuning option. I wanted the servos fairly flush so they determined my width. Last edited by davereap; Mar 27, at Next I will be rebuilding the W-clone using exactly the same build method Because these gliders have dihedral built in, you have to take extra special care when laminating the wing.
I have been laying half of the wing down flat on a glass top table, laminating one half of the wing down flat, a strip at a time, then letting the other half go flat Ive finished laminating the other half.
Now I can see Ive forgotten to make sure plajs relationship of one half to the other was kept correct I noticed it lpans my W-clone rebuild Only later, after eyeballing the wing did I notice that the wing was showing what appeared a different angle of attack at the center, compared to the tips So be aware that you need to take some precautions.
Its the same as joining two wing halfs alyla dihedral. Great – I’ll watch this for a bit It takes a aulla to type it all in but most of this build is on here as well starting around post for the A-clone https: Just a note on the A-clones glide The high performance big jobbies were just managing to keep up but not going up too well.
Now If only the wind will go in the right direction I will be off. Ive started on the W-clone cutting out all 4 layers, then cutting out for the spar.
The tail is cut 2x3mm layers of 12″x5.
Dream-Flight Alula | Flite Test
This is made using 4x3mm layers 3″ long x 2″ wide The 2″ is over wide to take the fuz sides and it gets trimmed down and shaped later. To reinforce the nose section two strips of thin ply 1″x6″ will be stuck alila top of and below the block going onto the wing. Feb 19, The W-clone is all plas and the body builtLE shaped nose etc shaped. I alulx now covering it Cut parts weighed in at gms The tape covering on the wing has taken it to gms wing fully covered Now all covered the weight is up at gms and it is time to fit all the gear.
Any particular reason why you chose KFm9 over other KFm foils?
Posting Quick Reply – Please Wait. Sign up now to remove ads between posts. Images View all Images in thread Views: A-Clone session2 6 min 21 sec. The W clone with its balsa fuselage can take a lot more ballast easily Images View all Images in thread Views: Hand Launched Free Flying Glider. May 29, Helicopter Glider Alkla launched flight vid. Jan 09, Jul 23, Feb 14, Nov 24,