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I have taken the control valve off numerous times, disassembled it and cleaned it as best I can. While looking at the autofrol brake down of that valve, I see that there are some O rings between the two parts. I remember seeing it in the old manuals where it showed a check valve but no real mznual way to get to it. If the ball doesn’t seal against its seat you may get water into the salt tank. I have a steady, but slow stream of water little more than a trickle coming through the drain line. When it is free anyway.
So I will get a rebuild kit maual try that. Thanks for all the helpful advice. I have an Autotrolthe problem I am having is it is not drawing brine in fact during the brine cycle it flows a small amount of water into the brine tank instead of creating the suction needed to draw brine out of the tank.
You don’t need any new module etc. Can you hear the valve move if you shake the valve body?
Autotrol / Osmonics Manuals
I also have an Autotrol – and the brine tank is consistently overfilling. With all of the flappers and other parts off one might be able to by soaking it in some thing like iron out. The time now is The air check is where the brine line going to the salt tank is connected to the control valve on top the air check. I replaced all the flapper valves and everything works fine now. I’ve cleaned the little screen and the injector – and I’ve cleaned the air check valve base.
My main problem is iron, I thought auttrol soaking it in a heavy concentrate of super iron out for a couple of days. I’ve never seen a bad ball.
Watts Autotrol ( Series) User Manual | 32 pages
I also was going to buy a rebuild kit but don’t want to waste the money if I need to replace the valve assembly. What kind of water quality are you deal with? Originally Posted by kpreilly. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
I will have to check one of the valves that I have in the pile, see what it sounds like. The only “check valve” is the black rubber ball in the air check on the right side facing the control. Is there anything inside the valve that I cannot get to that might be clogged or stuck and if so what can I do about it?
There is no check valve anywhere inside the Autotrol If I need one do you have a valve that can be rebilt, or how much is a new valve without the timer. I will let you know the results, thanks. It sounds as if you need a aytotrol of new flapper valves, especially the brine pair. After putting it back together and installing it back on the tank it still won’t siphon autotrll and actually water comes out of the brine well tube. In what area is the check valve and is there anything that it can be soaked in to clean it out like Iron out.
I have soaked it in Iron out, flushed it, cleaned the flapper valves, screen, injector valve basically everything that can come apart has come apart and been cleaned. It sounds like there is leakage past the 2 and possibly the 3 flapper valves and these are the two main valves. All times are GMT Autotrol won’t draw brine Printable View.
The Autotrol part number of ATthe valve body that sets on top of the tank adapter module looks to be around Yes I agree, I disassembled the valve, again, and soaked everything in a concentrated solution of Iron out and it is clean.